How to stretch watercolour paper… properly.

I’m a professional artist, and I often get asked how I do stuff. This post is one of a series I intend to put up, in which I thought I would share some working techniques. I do not claim to be an expert in most things I do, and I am generally self-taught, but I have been doing what I do for some years and I’m happy to share my experience with any who are interested.

In this post I will to show you how to stretch paper… properly. And how you can sometimes rescue it if it goes wrong. There is A LOT of detail in this explanation, but don’t be put off – it’s really quite simple, but it seems to be something that people have a lot of trouble with, so I thought I would put in all the detail because I think it sometimes comes down to exactly how you treat the materials. I have been stretching paper for years, and sometimes it does go wrong. You just have to shrug and do it again!

You may have a different method to this, in which case I’d love it if you’d leave a comment about it. What I mean by stretching watercolour paper ‘properly’ is not that this is the only method, but that it’s lovely to paint on properly stretched paper, and not stretching it properly is kind of a waste of your time…

The Principle:

Brown gummed paper tape: the most important ingredient.
Brown gummed paper tape: the most important ingredient.

When you paint on paper with water-based paints the paper expands as it gets wet and will not stay flat – in other words it will ‘cockle’. And when it dries, it will not dry nice and flat. The way to keep it flat is to soak it in water before you start, and tape out the paper onto a board while it is still wet. As the paper dries it is prevented from shrinking by the tape, and so it dries under tension. In other words, it is stretched.

While the paper is stretched, you can paint on it and it should remain flat because the tension is sufficiently great that even though the paper may expand, it will not cockle but will be held flat. Occasionally if you get it really very wet it may cockle a little bit, but as it dries it will be pulled back into shape and will dry nice and flat again. Note that as soon as you take the paper off the board it is no-longer under tension, so it is best to make sure you have finished painting before you do this.

What You’ll Need:

1. Paper: generally the most suitable paper is Watercolour Paper. For the best archival properties, and the ability to withstand a certain amount of abuse even when wet, good watercolour paper is made of cotton, not wood, because cotton has longer fibres, which gives it strength, and it does not yellow with age. It is possible to stretch other papers with care, though if the paper is not strong enough it can tear as it dries under tension. I use Hot Pressed watercolour paper with a weight of 300gsm / 140lb, which is thick, but, as watercolour paper goes, only average thickness. Thicker paper is more difficult to stretch and some people claim it is not necessary, but the real reason I use that weight of paper is that hot pressed (smooth surfaced) paper is not generally available in a heavier weight than that.

2. A board to stretch it on: opinions differ on this one. I use 6mm – 12mm thick sheets of MDF (medium desnity fibreboard), with a couple of thin coats of  polyurethane varnish to seal the surface. Probably acrylic varnish would also do the job, though I’ve not tried this. After varnishing with either sort, it is helpful to go over the surface of the board lightly with some coarse sandpaper, especially round the edges where your tape will be, to roughen it up a little and help the tape to stick.
You can get away with unvarnished MDF for a while, and the tape will stick all the better to it, but in the end the surface of the board breaks down and eventually the tape will not stick to it at all. I also have some melamine-faced panels of fibreboard from old kitchen units. These also work, but it’s even more important to go over the surface with a bit of coarse sandpaper first to roughen up the surface.
For small pieces, I have also used an old wooden bread board to quite good effect. MDF has no grain and therefore tends to stay flat. Small boards of wood may also stay flat, but plywood has a tendency to warp. Hardboard or masonite might work, though I have not tried this, I imagine it is not rigid enough if you want a large board but might be ok for a small board. I also imagine the same would apply as regards varnishing – the surface will not last long if you don’t varnish it.

3. Brown gummed paper tape: this comes in different widths. It’s more difficult to use the thinner stuff and generally I’d stick to the two-inch wide, or wider stuff, unless you’re stretching really little pieces of paper.

4. A roll of kitchen towel: for drying the paper. Make sure it is clean, and that it hasn’t picked up any grease or anything else!

5. A bowl of clean water: to wet the gummed tape.

How to stretch the paper:

The first step: clean your board!
The first step: clean your board!
The paper, soaked and ready to tape to the board
The paper, soaked and ready to tape to the board
Taping down the soaked paper with brown gummed tape
Taping down the soaked paper with brown gummed tape
The freshly taped paper, with a roll of kitchen towel to dry it with.
The freshly taped paper, with a roll of kitchen towel to dry it with.
The boards with freshly-stretched paper, standing up to dry. The paper is facing inwards to keep it clean and avoid interference from cats.
The boards with freshly-stretched paper, standing up to dry. The paper is facing inwards to keep it clean and avoid interference from cats.

1. Mark the side of the paper that you want to paint on. Watercolour paper is generally slightly different on one side to another and, if you prefer to paint on a certain side, it’s a good idea to mark in the corner of the side you want to use. if you don’t care, it doesn’t matter!

2. Don’t try to stick paper to a board already covered in old bits of tape. If you have a single layer of old tape, I find it enough to wet it at this point before putting the paper into soak, and I’m able to pick off the old bits of tape before the paper is finished soaking. If you have heaps of old tape stuck to your board you might want to make sure you get that off before you start.

3. Soak the paper in clean, cold water. I don’t time how long I soak paper for, but it should probably be 5 minutes at least, and not longer than about 20. Soaking for too long risks washing all the sizing out of the paper, making it too absorbent for painting.
I soak mine in the bath, because I don’t have anything bigger. You can soak it in the sink if that’s big enough, or anything else handy. When I lived where I didn’t have a bath, and I wanted to soak large bits of paper I put it against the tiled wall of the shower and sprayed it with the shower attachment for a few minutes, both sides. The wet sticks the paper to the tiles, so you don’t have to hold it up by hand. It’s a little tedious, but it works.
Whatever you do, make sure the container (or your shower wall) is clean. You don’t want any traces of grease or soap to be picked up, especially if you are going to be using watercolour or gouache.

4. Meanwhile you can pick off the old tape from your board as mentioned in number 2: soak any old bits of tape and pick them off – they aren’t helpful!

5. Pick up your soaked paper, let it drain and lay it on the board, with the side up that you want to use.

6. Dry your hands, because if you get the roll of gummed tape wet, it will be ruined!

7. Tear off lengths of gummed tape, one length for each side of the paper. Then put the rest of the roll of tape away from the water. Meanwhile the wet paper will have had a couple of minutes to settle, which seems to help.

8. Wet a piece of gummed tape. I do this by holding one end of a piece of gummed tape, quickly drawing it through the water and getting rid of excess water by holding it up and running it between two fingers. Run your fingers down the tape once just once, to get the surplus water off. You could probably wet it with a piece of sponge, but that would require finding a piece of sponge, and also finding a clean surface to lay the tape on. However you do it, you want the tape completely wetted on the gummed side, but not soaked for any length of time so that the gum washes off.

9. Stick down one edge of your paper carefully and neatly! This may sound obvious, but stretching paper is a tricky thing and getting it neat and even will minimize the risk of the paper coming off as it dries. Do make sure that the tape is stuck down all the way along, and that it doesn’t have wrinkled bits, or dry bits, or air bubbles. Also don’t have bits of tape sticking over beyond the edge of the board as I suspect this will also encourage it to start to peel off.

10. Stick down the other sides.

11. Mop up surface water from the paper and tape: I find it’s best to lay a single layer of kitchen towel over all the surface of the paper to suck up surface water, then use that same handfull of towel to go around the tape on the edges. Doing it this way round means you also do not risk getting gum from the tape on the rest of your paper.

12. Stand the board up to dry, and rotate it a couple of times when it first starts to dry: This is another point where opinions differ. My mother (who also paints) was always told that you should lay the board flat to dry. I find that if you do that then excess water will ooze out around the edge of the paper and the tape will stay quite wet around the edge for a long time. The trick is to get the tape round the edge to dry quickly, so that it is already holding the paper tightly before the paper dries out completely, shrinks, and begins to pull on the tape. So what I do is I stand the board on edge. Excess water will drain to the bottom edge, but I rotate it a few times so there is not a reservoir of wet at the bottom. How frequently I turn it and how often depends on where the board is. Outside on a warm day I might turn it every five minutes a couple of times, drying slowly inside I  might turn it every twenty minutes or so.

13. Drying outside is best if possible: If it is not damp outside, or very very cold, I always stand the board up outside to dry. There will be a better air-flow round the paper and it might even be warm and breezy, in which case your paper might be bone dry in an hour. If you stand it up inside, it can be damp for four or five hours. If it is sunny I recommend facing the paper away from the sun, but warm sun on the back of the board seems to be ok. I also recommend leaning the board against something, with the paper facing inwards, so that it is protected against bits of dust, insects, blowing over and falling face-down, and in my case, any action by overly helpful cats.

Preventing problems and rescuing failures

Stretching paper can be tricky, and sometimes there are failures, and sometimes spotting a failure just in time is enough to rescue the situation. Periodically inspecting the tape as the paper dries helps: have a look round the edges and see if it is coming away anywhere and if it is, take swift action!

A certain amount of remedial or rescue-work can be done to the stretched paper, providing only a small part has already come unstuck
A certain amount of remedial or rescue-work can be done to the stretched paper, providing only a small part has already come unstuck

1. If the tape is coming unstuck from the paper at one point: If the paper is not totally dry it will probably be enough to add a piece of tape, sticking it over the existing tape for longer than the length that has failed, and covering a little more of the paper (see opposite). Don’t get the new piece of tape too wet as you want it to dry quickly.

2. If the paper has come unstuck along an entire side. If the other edges are sound and well stuck, you can try this: Pull off the failed bit of tape, then get a large, soft, clean paintbrush and paint water over the entire surface of the paper except for the stuck edges – don’t get those wet again. Also be careful not to brush gum left along the failed edge onto the clean painting-surface of your paper. After you have soaked the surface of the paper like this for a few minutes you can stick down the failed edge with more tape. There may be a small bump as the edge will have expanded, but if you can get the failed edge stuck down soundly, it should smooth out when it dries.

Both of these methods above might result in a the paper going a little slack and cockling when you paint with it if you get it very wet, but there should be enough tension to pull it nice and flat when it dries out again.

3. If the paper has come away on more than one edge:
Pull it off, soak it and start again! When you soak it you can carefully remove any bits of tape, but try not to soak it for too long this time: soaking removes some of the sizing each time which will mean when you come to paint on the paper you might find it a lot more absorbent than you want it to be. If it fails a second time, I’d recommend starting again with a new piece of paper, and using the old piece for something that you aren’t going to put a lot of time and work into.

4. If the tape comes away from the board: If your tape is not gripping the board, you need to do something with the board. Unless this is in a very small area, in which case you might be able to stick it down, it’s probably best to start again anyway. In which case, if your board is smooth and varnished, or some other shiny surface, try going over the surface of the board with coarse sandpaper, especially near the edges, to take off some of the surface and give the tape something to grip. You shouldn’t have to sandpaper it heavily, but do wipe off the sanded surface afterwards with a damp cloth, because the dust won’t help.
If you’ve used something like unvarnished mdf or wood the tape may be coming off because the surface is breaking down. In which case putting on a coat of varnish may help, or just getting a new board with a better surface.

Don’t be put off. It is a joy to paint on properly stretched paper that doesn’t move about when you get it wet! This is a lot of detail and in fact the process is basically very simple. I’m only adding in all these details because I know some people seem to have trouble…

Happy stretching 🙂


  1. Excellent. Great how-to info. Thank you!

    1. Thanks so much for going into such detail!
      I’ve been having problems with stretching paper and sometimes you can’t solve a problem unless you know exactly how the process works. Very hard to find such detail online.

      1. Thank you Io! I hope it works for you – I still get occasional failures so don’t give up! I’m currently trying a slightly alternative approach of letting the paper settle, laying the tape on more gently round the edges, and leaving it horizontal not vertical for a while till it starts to dry a little on the surface, I think sometimes I squeeze too much glue out of the tape by pressing hard. If it works better I’ll update this! However, the process as I described above is what I’ve been using for years, more or less successfully…

  2. Excellent advice, has already helped me. BUT I prefer to tear off the paper strips and take them to the sheet of paper, rather than knock the entire roll into the water!

  3. Fair point, probably depends on how splashy you think you are. Possibly I prefer to live dangerously, though I admit to having half-ruined a roll of tape at least once which is why I did say ‘dry your hands’!… 😀

  4. […] have first drawn the image onto stretched watercolour paper, in pencil. Then the image is built up by thin washes of Prussian blue, (and generally no other […]

  5. I’ve never stretched paper before but plan to use gouachea lot more this year and want to do it right. This isa really helpful post and I’m looking forward to trying it out as soon as my gummed paper arrives in the post! Thank you.

    1. Thank you, and have fun! It’s the best surface for gouache paint…

  6. Thank you…..your post was very thorough and helpful.

    1. thank you! happy to have been of help 🙂

  7. HI Nancy,
    Thanks for making this! I am trying to find out whether it is okay to take the paper off the board after it has dried and paint it. Will it buckle then? Does it have to stay taped down for the whole thing to work?

    1. Hello Yam, I am afraid that yes, you have to keep it taped on the board until you have finished painting: it is under a lot of tension on the board, so it doesn’t buckle, but as soon as you take it off, that tension goes. Tiny details you could add in afterwards, but nothing that will get the paper substantially wet.

  8. Good article, do you think gum tape can go off after time as I found an old roll and partly works and partly didn’t!

    1. Thanks!
      None of mine has gone off unless it has got damp, and then it sticks together and is useless. I’ve found rolls that were probably 20 years old and where not stuck together they were still fine.

  9. How do I get the dried gummed paper bits off that are stuck to the painting after I have finished?

    1. Aren’t they just round the edge of your paper? You can just trim the edge off so it’s nice and tidy.

  10. Thank you for this guide. It helped me with preparing a stretching board.
    For the people that are unsure of how to put varnish on your board:
    Sand(fine grit) the entire surface of your board and clean with a damp cloth or cloth and white spirit/mineral spirits.
    Apply varnish and let it dry.
    Sand 1st layer of varnish again(fine grit)
    clean with a damp cloth.
    Apply 2nd layer and repeat the previous 2 steps, Apply 3rd layer.
    Sand(coarse grit) 3rd layer and clean with damp cloth.

    Don’t forget to stir your varnish before and during appliance, but don’t stir it too heavily to prevent airbubbles from forming. Apply the varnish in an uniform way.

    1. Glad it helped. I have to say I didn’t bother with all that varnishing and sanding process – just a couple of thin coats of varnish straight onto MDF to seal it, and then yes, it does help to sand it with a bit of coarse sandpaper afterwards, but I guess if you don’t have nice smooth MDF to start with…

  11. Thanks for this tutorial, but I have this one problem that I just can’t figure out. While the gummed tape sticks to the board, for some reason it doesn’t stick to the paper and the sides that are touching it constantly warp whenever it dries. Right now I’m using a white melamine board with a slightly sanded surface, & I’ve tried turning the board around and laying it down flat after applying the tape.

    I’ve tried rubbing my fingers on the tape, I tried using a dry sponge to soak up the excess water along the edges of the paper, I tried adding extra layers of tape (as well as masking tape and duct tape), and I played around with the amount of water I apply to the tape since I’m using a damp sponge & I’m not sure if I’m adding too much or not enough. However, none of these solutions seem to be working either.

    Based on your tutorial, the only other possibility I think could be causing it is that I’m fidgeting with the tape when I place it on the paper rather than slapping it down since I’m trying to make it so that the tape is placed directly on the bleed lines I drew on the paper. Do you have any ideas or suggestions?

    1. Oh dear, you do seem to have tried most things Zach! Have you tried a different brand of tape? Might be that the tape you’re using is a bit iffy. I have occasionally had the tape just not stick to the paper, but not all the time. Fiddling with the tape probably doesn’t help, and maybe try running the tape through water and then running it between two fingers to get the excess water off, so that the tape gets good and wet, but you are not sponging off the glue. And then put it on and don’t spend time moving it around, just press it down firmly and leave it.
      I don’t think adding more tape will help until it has had a chance to dry – you are more likely to strip the glue from drying out and holding fast that way. Ditto laying it face-down, which is why I stand my board up to drain, but rotate it occasionally.
      Perhaps you are also using fairly narrow tape to stretch fairly large paper? Or actually not taping very much of the edge of the paper?

  12. Sigrid

    Hello Nancy. Nice post! This is the way I usually stretch my paper for watercolor painting. Though I’ve a question, this last time my table is warp. What can I do? The paper is Saunders Waterford 300 gsm and the board is made of wood panels and 2 cm thick. I’d be very grateful if you could help me. Thank you! 🙂

    1. Hi Sigrid, do you mean the board warped when you stretched the paper on it? Could you try next time stretching the paper on the other side to maybe pull it back? I have stretched paper on a large board and had it warp before so that the paper is not actually touching the surface of the board, but this is fine if you are only going to paint in it as it you won’t be pressing hard with a paintbrush, and if the paper is only standing a little bit away from the board you might be able to draw in it fine too. Otherwise, you might try getting a new board out of MDF (Medium-density fibreboard) because it doesn’t warp so badly as actual wood as it has no grain, but if you do, best to give it a coat of varnish first or it won’t last long.

  13. […] then print the drawing out, trace it, and transfer it to watercolour paper. The watercolour paper I’ve already stretched on a board to keep it flat when it is […]

  14. I have looked everywhere for this tape and I cannot find it. I’ve looked online and gone to art supply stores and even the store owner said he gets supplies from places all across north america and can’t seem to find any. He said he’s had many people come in and ask for it and he only has the masking tape. Is there a website that you know of that has this tape and ships to Canada? Hellllppppp 😦

    1. Hi Saara, that is very odd because it’s a very standard thing over here. I did a quick search which led to lots on Amazon – search for ‘brown gummed paper tape’ – here’s the search –
      – but hard to tell from here which ones will shop to you. The ‘butterfly’ brand – fourth down – is what you see here. I wonder if your local art shop is looking for the wrong thing – you can’t really stretch paper with any other thing. Hope that helps?

    2. p.s. – that search doesn’t bring up all the correct ones – some of those are more like masking tape – you want the stuff that you wet to stick. But lots of them at a glance look like the correct ones.

  15. Kate C.

    Super useful post! Any chance you could give us some detailed hints as to the best way you get your finished painting OFF the board? I just sort of ended up tearing mine off, because I wasn’t sure how else to get it off and the tape was really stuck on there (which is the point obviously!) Tips? Tricks? Thanks in advance!!

    1. Hi Kate, thank you! I just get the picture off by slicing the tape just outside the watercolour paper with a scalpel blade. If you cut it just a the point where it is attached neither to the paper or the board, and ideally cutting as little as possible into the board. THis leaves half the tape on the board, but you can leave that remnant to soak and peal it off, when you are soaking a new piece of paper. Give the board a through wipe after you have peeled off the tape though, because if you leave the gum from the tape on it you can find your new paper will get stuck to the board and then you’ll have to spend some time sliding a sharp knife underneath to try to cut it off.

  16. Mario Donnetti

    Thank you . You have been very thorough in your explanation . I shall certainly have a go at your method for my next painting

    1. Thank you Mario, hope it turns out to be helpful!

  17. Robert .

    Very well described, thank you.
    A couple of things to add which I learned years ago but not sure where now.
    If you varnish your board then, at least once, varnish the back totally or with an X shape from corner to corner – this just helps stop the board from warping. Alternatively, fix batons to the board first.

    When you lay your wet paper on the prepared board, just gently sweep once or twice over it with a dry wallpaper smoothing brush – the ones about 10ins to a foot wide. This takes away excess water without damaging the paper and helps lay the paper flat. Just wipe around the edges of the board with absorbent paper towel ready for the tape.

    1. Ah interesting – I blot my paper after I’ve stuck it down to take off the excess water, however I think I might try your method, sometimes the tape does come off and it might be too much water underneath. With regard to varnishing the board – I was always told you should varnish or paint both sides of a piece of wood for that very reason, so long ago that I probably forgot not everybody had been told this at the age of six 😀

  18. The last time I tried this I put a sheet of Bristol paper over top the watercolor paper to absorb as much water as possible. I put a second Masonite panel atop the Bristol paper to keep it firmly pressed down. I left it that way for about 5 minutes. I applied the tape and then let it completely dry with the Bristol paper and Masonite panel pushing down on it again. It seemed to take about two hours to completely dry. It worked along one edge, but not the other three.

    I am going to take it a couple steps further next time. I am going to cut down the top Masonite so that it the watercolor paper extends 2 inches along all the edges. Before when the Masonite covered 100% of the paper, it allowed the entire surface to dry more or less evenly. By cutting the top board shorter, the edges of the paper will be exposed to open air guaranteeing that it will dry first.

    I am also going to give the watercolor paper more time pressed against the Bristol paper to decrease dampness-maybe 20 minutes.

    I was so close before that I am optimistic that this time will work. I am also thinking about gently sweeping the edges with a heat gun to speed things up. I am using Blick 140lbs hot press.

    The Bristol paper is re-usable. It crinkles up but with the weight of the top Masonite board it doesn’t matter. I’m using sanded Masonite finished with lacquer and glue-clamped to a pine frame underneath it. Fellow art students used Bristol paper to dry relief carving prints on the drying rack back in the day in printmaking class. That’s where I got the idea.

    Thanks for sharing your steps!

    1. Looking at your own prints, I am having a hard time remembering which printmaking discipline used the Bristol paper. Maybe it was etching? Grad school was 10 years ago so I have forgotten.

      1. sorry I’m not familiar with Bristol paper so i can’t really say.

    2. That’s an interesting but quite involved process! I’ve tried speeding up the drying process – it never seems to end well! Usually I’ve found the best thing is to let it dry naturally and keep a beady eye on it – if you see it start to come unstuck, stick it down quick at that point. If it’s still a bit damp it usually saves the process. Have fun experimenting, I do think that just plain air-drying is usually the trick, but whatever works for you is a good method.

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